The invention of timepieces is one of the greatest technological innovations that humankind has witnessed. When it comes to collecting timepieces, it is a passion that is all about the details and it can take years to build an impressive collection. In the modern world acquiring vintage and luxury timepieces is also symbolic of elite status. This has generated a lot of interest and enthusiasm in the collectors’ community. AstaGuru’s upcoming ‘Heirloom Jewellery, Silver & Timepieces’ auction features an excellent collection from the holy trinity of watches –Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin– as well as other top luxury watchmaking brands. The detailed timepieces catalogue offers a wide range of options for both seasoned and budding collectors. Kunal Khemka, an avid collector and watch connoisseur who also has a keen passion for horological history. In this article, he lists out his favourite picks from the timepieces collection in our upcoming auction.
A Bronze Table Clock by Tiffany & Company, New York. Lot No 83.
Table Clocks are a rarity nowadays. Few want them, and even fewer make them. The design of this Tiffany & Company Bronze Table Clock, coupled by its generous size (18 * 8.5 * 6 inches), and it’s gorgeous enamel floral motif detailing on blue enamel ground, offers a peek into an era when the pace of life was slower and simply perfect. It conjures up images of old Black and White Hollywood movies with their vintage charm, where the elegance of gentry was unmatched. Fast forward to today, it will charm and be a statement piece in any home or office where it is proudly and lovingly displayed.
Vacheron Constantin White Gold Wristwatch Ref No. 31095 Case No. 700104. Lot No 93.
Vacheron Constantin (VC) is the oldest continuous watchmaker in existence, ticking away since 1755 when they were founded near Lake Geneva, Switzerland. They just celebrated their 266th birthday. Part of the Holy Trinity (the other two being Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillipe), VC has crafted several of the most amazing timepieces in history and continue to do so. These include some of the most beautiful ladies’ timepieces, such as this reference No. 31095.
It is a discreet hand-wound time-only timepiece, with an abundance of details for the owner to admire. In an era of ‘integrated bracelets,’ its 18K white gold bracelet is a masterclass in craftsmanship and workmanship, the likes of which is seldom practiced anymore. This timepiece discreetly speaks wealth and class without screaming about it. It combines the best traditions of haute horology and jewelry and is as timeless and elegant as ever.
Audemars Piguet Yellow & White Gold Vintage Wristwatch Ref No. 4108. Lot No. 94.
Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet (AP) is also a member of the Holy Trinity. It is independently owned, and still has members of the founding family in its ownership and management.
While famous for the Gerald Genta designed Royal Oak, this 18K yellow and white gold vintage wristwatch reference 4108 is a pleasant surprise from AP’s past, and an absolute delight. In addition to its lovely design, its engraved yellow gold bezel along with its white gold mesh design bracelet personify timeless beauty, as relevant today as it was yesterday. A timepiece so elegant, it will be the perfect accessory for any lady who decides to wear it.
Rolex 18K White Gold Cherry Index President Day-Date Wristwatch Model No. 118206. Lot No. 109.
The Day-Date is the Flagship of the Rolex family. According to Rolex’s website, the Day-Date was launched in 1956, and it is the first waterproof and self-winding chronometer wristwatch with a modern calendar with instantaneous date display, the day spelt out in full at 12’o clock and the date at 3’o clock. When US President Lyndon B. Johnson wore a Yellow Gold Day-Date in 1965, it forever became known as the Presidents Watch. The Day-Date is considered one of the most prestigious timepieces in the world and is a horological icon.
This reference nicknamed ‘Rolex Cherry,’ stands out due to its cherry (or burgundy) colour dial against the backdrop of its white gold hour-markers, white gold hands, white colour day and date windows, white gold case, and white gold president bracelet. At 36mm it is also quite wearable. The Cherry dial adds a ‘youthful’ touch to an otherwise formal watch. It makes it highly versatile, equally at ease in casual and formal settings. And every bit one of the most prestigious watches in the world.
Patek Phillipe Gondolo Platinum Wristwatch Ref No. 5109P. Lot No. 130.
Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Switzerland, Patek Phillipe (PP) is part of the Holy Trinity. Since 1932, they have been owned by the Stern family, and prides itself on family-ownership and independence. They have a history of crafting many of the most beautiful and complicated timepieces in the world and often considered the most prestigious name in watchmaking.
The Gondolo Collection was launched in 1993. According to an old PP catalogue (2006/2007), the Gondolo collection is PP’s contemporary interpretation of the Art Deco style. The ‘Gondolo’ name was derived from the ‘Chronometro Gondolo’ watches that were crafted for the famous Brazilian retailer – Goldolo & Labouriau – between 1902 and 1930.
Cased in platinum, the reference 5109P is a gorgeous timepiece from the Gondolo Collection. Its silver dial has beautiful design elements such as its railway style outer minute track, applied index baton hour markers, inner black rectangle, and small-seconds at 6’O Clock. Its movement is the hand-wound in-house caliber 215PS, adorned with the Poincon de Geneva or Geneva Seal. (Since 2009 PP has adopted its own Patek Phillipe Seal.) Reference 5109P is a gorgeous example of a form watch with an Art Deco style dial. It is PP at its elegant best, and it would make an excellent addition to any timepiece collection.
A. Lange & Sohne 18K Yellow Gold Grand Lange 1 Wristwatch Model No. 115.021. Lot 131.
The rebirth of A. Lange & Sohne on 25 October 1994 is one of the greatest ‘comeback’ stories in the world of watchmaking. Quite possibly the entire Swiss watch industry, especially the Holy Trinity of Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillipe and Vacheron Constantin, woke up to a formidable new competitor in Glasshutte (former East Germany). Watchmaking was never the same again. The finest watches in the world were not the monopoly of the Swiss anymore, and now also came from the former East Germany. The ‘new’ Lange initially launched four new models. These included the Lange 1, Tourbillon Pour Le Merite, Saxonia, and Arkade.
The Lange 1 has been considered the ‘public face’ of the new Lange. With its asymmetrical dial layout and outsize date, it is considered one of the most iconic watches of all time. The original Lange 1 design has a case size of 38.5mm and was powered by Lange’s first ever calibre – L901.0. The Grand Lange 1 was launched in 2003, to appeal to those who wanted the Lange 1 in a larger case diameter. Lange did not yet have a larger movement for this new case (41.9mm), so they used the caliber – L901.2 (same as L901.0, but possibly with larger base plate), which also resulted in the overlapping sub-dials. It was a youthful and quirky take on the iconic Lange 1. (Production of this piece continued until 2012, when this piece was replaced by the newer Grand Lange 1 with a newer larger movement without the need for overlapping subdials.)
The Grand Lange 1 featured here in 18K yellow gold with its two-tone champagne and silver dial is a rare example, as Lange seldom does yellow gold cases and champagne colour dials anymore. This original Grand Lange 1 is special because it is a piece from the initial period of the ‘new’ Lange; it is powered by Lange’s first ever caliber (today they have over fifty in-house calibers, all in span of 27 years), and is one of the most iconic horological designs of all time. This piece will be a fantastic addition to any timepiece collection.
A truly ‘different kind of limited edition’ curated with exceptional timepieces will be showcased in AstaGuru’s upcoming auction. Titled ‘Heirloom Jewellery, Silver and Timepieces,’ the auction is scheduled to be held on October 26-27, 2021.
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